Ketler (Fingering Weight)
Designed by Luke Gilligan
#KetlerKnit @woolenthusiast
I do offer this as a free pattern and if you would like to support me so I can continue to share free patterns like these consider “buying me a coffee” through the link below! It will help pay for the yarn and the costs to make the pattern. Thanks!
SIZING & MEASUREMENTS
Figures reflect the finished garment.
Measurements taken before blocking.
Intended to be worn with + 1-2 ” (2.5-5 cm) ease.
All measurements can be viewed here: MEASUREMENT CHART
Sizes:
1 (2, 3, 4, 5, 6) [7, 8, 9, 10, 11, 12]
Bust :
33 (34, 35, 38, 40, 42) [46, 47, 51, 53, 57, 61]”
84 (87, 92, 98, 103, 105) [114, 120, 130, 135, 145, 155] cm
Yarn & Yardage
Featured Yarn: Sweet Sparrow Yarns, House Wren,
85% Superwash Merino, 15% Nylon; 438 yd per 100g.
A Sweater For Reggie: 3 (3, 4, 4, 4, 4)[4, 4, 5, 5, 5, 5] skeins.
Total Yardage:
1249 (1276, 1374, 1445, 1526, 1530) [1643, 1687, 1801, 1860, 1963, 2106] yds
1142 (1167, 1256, 1322, 1395, 1399) [1503, 1543, 1647, 1701, 1926] m
Needles:
US 4 (3.5 mm) Circulars, 16-40” cable length.
US 6 (4.0 mm) Circulars, 16-40” cable length.
Note: Adjust needle size in order to obtain gauge.
Notions
- Stitch Markers
- Tapestry Needle
- Scrap yarn or stitch holders for the underarms.
Gauge
1 x 1 rib, unblocked, using smaller needles.
30 sts x 38 rows for 4 x 4” (10 cm)
Stockinette Stitch, unblocked, using larger needles.
26 sts x 36 rows for 4 x 4” (10 cm)
Directions
With smaller needles and MC, cast on 110 (112, 118, 120, 122, 122) [126, 130, 134, 136, 144, 150] sts and join to knit in the round, making sure to not twist any sts. Place a BOR marker, designating the beginning of the round, slip as you come to it.
Round 1: *K1, p1; rep from * around.
Repeat Round 1 for 2.5” (6.3 cm).
Note: You can adjust the length of the collar to match the aesthetic you are looking for. I would recommend 1” for more of a boat neck.
Next Round: Purl around.
Change to larger needles and knit one row.
Initial Raglan Increases
Round 1: K2, pm, m1L, k36 (36, 40, 40, 42, 42) [44, 46, 48, 48, 54, 56] m1r, pm, k2, m1r, pm, k12, pm, m1L, k2, pm, m1L, k42 (44, 46, 48, 48, 48) [50, 52, 54, 56, 58, 62], m1r, pm, k2, m1r, pm, k12, pm, m1L. 8 sts increased
Round 2: Knit around.
Round 3: K2, sm, [m1L, knit to next marker, m1R, sm, knit to next marker, m1R, sm, k8, sm, m1L, knit to next marker] twice. 8 sts increased.
Round 4 (Sizes 1-4): Knit around.
Note about Short Rows: If you want short rows for the back, you will work these while working the increases for this section. If you want to include short rows, work them after the work (do not include the collar measurements) measures around 1.5”. Make sure to start after an increased round. If you do not want short rows, just work the increases as usual.
Continue Repeating Rounds 2-3(4) until you have worked 24 (24, 24, 25, 26, 26) [27, 27, 30, 30, 32, 34] total increase rounds including Round 1. End after a Round 2.
You should have 302 (304, 310, 320, 330, 330) [342, 346, 374, 400 422] sts total.
Sizes 1- 3: Continue to Front Increases.
Sizes 4 -12: Continue to Sleeve Increases.
Short Rows (Optional)
Note: You will be working the short rows on a plain knit round. After completing the short rows you will finish the knit round and then for sizes 1-4 work another knit round, all other sizes will continue working the increases as instructed above.
Short Row 1: K2, sm, knit to next marker, sm, knit to next marker, sm, k8, sm, knit to next marker, sm, knit to 4 sts before next marker, wrap and turn.
Short Row 2: Purl to 4 sts before the next marker, wrap and turn.
Short Row 3: Knit to 4 sts before the last wrap, wrap and turn.
Short Row 4: Purl to 4 sts before the last wrap, wrap and turn.
Short Rows 5-8: Repeat Short Rows 3-4.
Short Row 9: Knit to the end of the round, picking up and working the wraps as you come to them.
Sizes 1-4: Work Rounds 3-4 once.
Sizes 5-9: Work Round 3 once.
Sleeve Increases
Round 1: K2, sm, m1L, knit to next marker, m1R, sm, knit to next marker, m1R, sm, k12, sm, m1L, knit to next marker, sm, knit to next marker, sm, knit to next marker, m1r ,sm, k12, sm, m1l, knit to the end. 6 sts increased.
Round 2: Knit around.
Repeat Rounds 1 -2 , - (- , -, 0, 0, 8) [10, 12, 8, 9, 6, 6] more repeats. End after working a Round 2.
You should have - (-, -, 326, 336, 384) [408, 424, 428, 436, 442, 464] sts.
Continue to Front Increases.
Front Increases
You will now only increase on the front of the sweater.
Round 1: K2, sm, m1L, knit to next marker, m1R, sm, knit to the end slipping markers as you come to them. (2 sts inc)
Round 2: Knit around.
Round 3 (Sizes 1-3): Knit around.
Repeat Rounds 1-2 (3), 3 (5, 8, 12, 15, 10) [16, 18, 27, 32, 40, 46] more times. Ending after working a Round 1.
You should have 310 (316, 328, 352, 368, 406) [442, 462, 484, 502, 524, 558] total sts.
Work until piece measures 10.75 (11, 11.5, 12, 12, 12) [12.5, 13, 12.5, 14, 14.5]” / 27 (28, 30, 31, 31, 31) [32, 33, 34, 36, 37, 38] cm
Body and Sleeve Separation
Note: BOR will stay the same. Keep the markers on the sleeve where they are.
Work ## of front sts: 96 (100, 110, 122, 132, 138) [158, 168, 186, 198, 218, 236]
Place ## of sts on hold (scrap yarn or stitch holders): 60 (60, 60, 64, 66, 82) [88, 92, 90, 92, 90, 94]
CO ## of sts: 14
PM, Work ## of back sts: 94 (96, 98, 102, 104, 104) [108, 110, 118, 120, 126, 134]
Place ## of sts on hold (scrap yarn or stitch holders): 60 (60, 60, 64, 66, 82) [88, 92, 90, 92, 90, 94]
CO ## of sts: 14
Total Body sts: 218 (224, 236, 252, 264, 270) [294, 306, 332, 346, 372 398]
Body
Knit around until the body measures 24 (24, 25, 25, 26, 26) (26, 27, 27, 29, 29, 30)” / 61 (61, 64, 64, 66) (66, 69, 74, 74) cm or 2” (5cm) shorter than your desired body length.
Next Round: *K1, p1; rep from * around.
Repeat for 2” (5 cm).
Bind off all sts in a loose BO.
Sleeves (x2)
How to get your measurements for the sleeves:
I give measurements as reference, but if you want a perfectly fitted sweater make sure to use your own measurements. Following this template:
After the Pick Up round: Knit 3 rounds.
Work Underarm Decrease # 1
Measure the length from your underarm to the beginning of the forearm (elbow crook). Work until the sleeve reaches 1 inch less than the number you just measured.
Work Underarm Decreases # 2.
Measure the length from your forearm (elbow crook) to your wrist). Work until sleeves measure 2.5 inches less than the number you just got.
Work the final decrease round and begin the cuff!
Pick Up Round: Place sts that are on hold, back to the needle. Then PU&K the 14 underarm sts. 74 (74, 74, 78, 80, 96) [102, 106, 104, 106, 104, 108] sts.
Rounds 1-3: Knit around.
Underarm Decrease # 1:
Round 1: K2tog, knit around to the last 2 sts (working the center sleeve pattern when you come to it), ssk. (2 sts dec)
Round 2: Knit around.
Repeat Rounds 1-2, 4 more times total. 64 (64, 64, 68, 70, 86) [92, 96, 94, 96, 94, 98] sts.
Continue working the sleeve in pattern until the sleeve measures 6 (6, 6, 6, 6, 6) [7, 6, 5, 5, 5, 5]” / 13 (13, 13, 13, 13, 13) [15, 13, 12, 12 12, 12] cm from the underarm.
Forearm Decreases:
Round 1: K2tog, knit around to the last 2 sts (working the center sleeve pattern when you come to it), ssk. (2 sts dec)
Round 2: Knit around.
Repeat Rounds 1-2, 4 more times. 54 (54, 54, 58, 60, 76) [82, 86, 84, 86, 84, 88] sts.
Continue working the sleeve in pattern until the sleeve measures 8 (8, 9, 9, 9, 8) [7, 7, 7, 7, 7, 6]” / 15 (15, 22, 22, 22, 15) (15, 15, 15, 15, 15, 14) cm from the underarm.
Next Decrease Round: [K3, k2tog] 10 (10, 10, 11, 12, 15) [16, 17, 16, 17, 16, 17] times, knit to the end. 44 (44, 44, 47, 48, 61) [66, 69, 68, 69, 68, 71] sts.
Cuff:
Work 1x1 ribbing for 2.5” (6 cm). Bind off loosely!
Finishing
You are done! Now, simply weave in your ends and give your sweater a good blocking!
Enjoy your Ketler Sweater! I would love to see what you make so make sure to tag me @woolenthusiast on Instagram and use the #KetlerKnit!
I really hope you enjoyed this blog post and freebie pattern! Remember to tag me on Instagram and if you are planning to use Universal Yarns when knitting this pattern, shop using the links above! I would greatly appreciate it!
Happy Making!
I do offer this as a free pattern and if you would like to support me so I can continue to share free patterns like these consider “buying me a coffee” through the link below! It will help pay for the yarn and the costs to make the pattern. Thanks!